![]() It’s impossible to draw up an Absolute Best Italian Restaurants in New York list without Mario Batali establishments popping up everywhere like daffodils in springtime. The scripted homage to mid-20th-century Italian-American dining is pricey and dripping with shtick, but also undeniably fun and delicious - especially the table-side Caesar, the supercolossal veal Parmesan, the garlic-and-chile-suffused angel-hair pasta, and a limited-supply white lasagna sold by the $85 pan that could feed an entire crew of Gambinos. ![]() Of course, if it’s spectacle you want, this is where to find it. There’s nowhere better to become a regular. The drinks and service are on point, the mood jovial but always civilized. ![]() ![]() You can do all these things at I Sodi, Rita Sodi’s sleek, unfussy paean to the food she grew up eating in Tuscany: simple salads blanketed with cheese, pancetta-wrapped rabbit, seasonal specials like chestnut tortelli, and a magnificent 20-odd-layer lasagna stacked up as neatly as a deck of cards. Unlike a bastion of French haute cuisine or an upmarket sushi den, the very best Italian restaurant, by our estimation, must be a neighborhood restaurant - a place you can roll into with minimal forethought and grab a seat at the bar, order some well-sourced salumi and cheese or a perfect plate of pasta, and let the worries of the day dissipate with a bracingly bitter Negroni. ![]()
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